author: Ray Kreisel
title: another kind of freedom

...the land around me had a purity that I have never seen before, purity in colour and terrain. the rocks that covered the mountains around me shone with every shade of purple, green, brown, orange, and red. each of the colours carefully blended into the next, with occasional patches of brilliant white snow. the unending line of telephone poles that follows the road created the only intrusion on this landscape.

since Ali, the poles recorded my past and pointed the way to my future. the poles lead to only one place, Kashgar. that was where I hoped my future also lay. at times I could see the black wooden rods off into the distance, I would start to ride cross-country because I knew that I was headed in the right direction, leaving the road to take its own course. when I rode across the desert without even a dirt track to follow, I had an sense of totally unrestrained freedom. there were no lines, no paths, no tracks to follow. nothing constrained or controlled my movement. it was a different kind of travel, a different kind of freedom.

the heart of the Askin Chin is a massive basin that spans hundreds of miles across. from the middle of this table land, I could clearly see distant mountains in all directions, to the south the Himalaya of Ladakh, India, to the west the peaks of the Karakoram Mountains in Pakistan, and to the north the Kun Lun Shan Mountains, the 'Mountains of Darkness'. while I rode, I noticed that the animals of the Askin Chin seemed to be less afraid of me. maybe it was just that very few people have ever spent any time in this area. when an antelope saw me riding on the road, he raced me for some distance.

to ride in this vacant land side by side with such a beautiful animal brought a great smile to my face. I sprinted down the road at 15 mph with a wild antelope just a few yards away bounding alongside me. in the late afternoon the winds and dark storm clouds rolled in. they brought head winds so strong that I would have to stop riding. the ditches off the side of the road and the small piles of dirt left by the road workers created convenient rest areas. the winds pelted me with small rocks and sand when I remained out in the open. sometimes the storms also brought flurries of fresh snow even in the months of July and August. the monsoon back on the south side of the Himalaya in India filled the clouds with moisture. the saying that I have seen on Harley Davidson T-shirts, rang through my head. 'ride to live, live to ride.' I do not think this is exactly what all of those riders had in mind...

more of another kind of freedom: www.kreisels.com/tibet94/

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